The Spirits Insider: A Quiet Classic Meets a Hidden Gem
- Emily Sampson
- Sep 4
- 5 min read
How a French vermouth from Chambéry found a home behind one of Melbourne’s most celebrated bars.
For nearly two decades, Dolin vermouth has quietly held its place behind the bars of the world’s most celebrated venues. At Cerbaco, our partnership with this family-run house from Chambéry, France, has grown into something enduring and personal.
It began 18 years ago, when Melbourne’s Black Pearl requested the range, and a former Cerbaco team member from Chambéry vouched for Dolin’s quality. From ski trips in Val Thorens to late-night glasses of Genepi, the connection has grown into something more than business — it’s friendship.
Behind the Bluestone Walls
When Dolin asked us to showcase a venue that champions their products, we thought immediately of Caretaker’s Cottage. Tucked behind a small church in Melbourne’s CBD, this heritage-listed cottage is home to one of the country’s most exciting cocktail programs. It’s the kind of place where everything feels intentional — the music, the menu, even the light in the courtyard on a summer evening.
Since opening in March 2022, Caretaker’s — founded by Matthew Stirling, Ryan Noreiks, and Rob Libecans — has become a local favourite and an international standout, winning The Art of Hospitality Award and landing at #23 and #21 on The World’s 50 Best Bars list in 2023 and 2024.
Meet the Team Behind the Cocktails
We caught up with Kitty Gardner and Darren Leaney, two-thirds of Caretaker’s drinks team, to talk about vermouth, creativity, and what it means to work with products that speak for themselves.
Kitty has spent 16 years behind the bar, working in Melbourne, Edinburgh, and Copenhagen. For the past three years, she’s been a creative force at Caretaker’s, co-developing every drink on the menu alongside Darren and the broader team.
Q: What sets Dolin apart from other vermouths you use in your cocktails? “Dolin’s quality and restraint make it a bartender’s dream. Its flavour clarity lets everything else shine.”
Darren brings 17 years of experience across cocktail bars, nightclubs, restaurants, and bottled cocktail concepts. Originally from Adelaide, he’s now based in Melbourne and splits his time between service, management, and drink development.
Q: How did you discover Dolin vermouth, and what attracted you to this brand? “I’ve used Dolin in a number of bars throughout my career. The branding caught my eye, but more than that, it’s delicious and versatile.”
What began as a team of three has quickly grown into a crew of 19, all contributing to a venue that balances craft, hospitality, and creativity — making Caretaker’s a natural fit for Dolin.
“We want the space to feel fun, safe, inclusive, and approachable,” Darren says.
Kitty adds: “It’s a pub at its core with a big reflection of its community — positive energy, a shared experience, and respect for product and produce.”
Dolin at the Heart of the Menu
Because the menu changes monthly, Dolin continuously adapts to new contexts, seamlessly pairing with fresh concepts and seasonal ingredients. The team works with Dolin’s full range, from the classic Dry and Rouge to the fruit-forward Chambéryzette, each layering structure and flavour in its own way.
The latter, a strawberry-infused aperitif, is a standout favourite. Its soft fruit notes shine even alongside bold ingredients like quince, shiso, and rooibos, making it a go-to for complexity without overpowering the glass.
Q: As a bartender, how do you feel about working with a quality vermouth like Dolin in your creations?
Darren: “It’s rare to find a product that works so well across so many styles of drinks. Dolin does exactly that — it gives us the freedom to be creative without ever compromising balance.”
Two Drinks That Tell a Story
Among their favourite creations is The Swan, a fresh and balanced cocktail where Dolin Dry ties together gin, orgeat, lime, and absinthe.
Inspired by a summer afternoon in the courtyard, the team crafted it to be light, elegant, and endlessly refreshing — a quiet showcase of Dolin’s ability to bring structure without overpowering delicate flavours.
Another standout, A Love Supreme, pairs Dolin Dry with Japanese whisky, pink ginger, shiso, strawberry, and lemon — a drink born from a moment of playful experimentation during an international cocktail competition. For Kitty and Darren, it represents curiosity and connection: a fusion of bold ingredients anchored by Dolin’s restraint.
“It was one of those cocktails people kept coming back for,” Kitty says with a smile. “The balance was just right — Dolin gave the drink this clean backbone that let the other flavours shine.”
The common thread in these drinks is the way Dolin supports rather than dominates. “It’s the kind of ingredient that gives you freedom,” Kitty explains. “You can build around it, layer on top of it, and know it won’t steal the spotlight.”
Q: What is your favourite cocktail made with Dolin vermouth and why?
Kitty: “One of my favourite cocktails to make with Dolin Dry is The Swan. It’s fresh, balanced, and every ingredient has its moment. Dolin adds complexity without overpowering. And if you’re after something timeless, a well-made Martini with quality vermouth like Dolin never disappoints.”
A Partnership That Evolves
Australia’s growing aperitivo culture has brought vermouth into the spotlight, and Caretaker’s has leaned into that shift. While guests may not always recognise Dolin by name, they taste its impact in every pour. From delicate spritzes to complex stirred drinks, Dolin shapes the backbone of the bar’s evolving menu.
Through Cerbaco, Caretaker’s enjoys a close connection to the Dolin team — one built on trust, shared creativity, and ongoing support. This partnership extends beyond simply stocking a product. It involves conversations about flavour, ideas exchanged between teams, and the shared goal of introducing guests to new drinking experiences.
“Nouha is always helpful and supportive,” Kitty says. “We get updates, suggestions, and are often invited to events. It makes a real difference.”
That level of collaboration means Dolin isn’t just a supplier; it’s part of the creative process. Each expression becomes a tool for storytelling, giving Caretaker’s the flexibility to create drinks that feel current while staying rooted in Dolin’s timeless heritage.
Q: Are tradition, craftsmanship or terroir values that matter to you when choosing a vermouth? Kitty: “Absolutely. Those values give a product depth and authenticity. With Dolin, you can taste where it comes from — and you want to honour that.”
With two new Dolin cocktails set to debut on the September menu, the collaboration continues to grow. For a team that thrives on experimentation, each menu cycle offers a fresh opportunity to push boundaries while keeping Dolin’s classic expressions at the heart of their storytelling.
Caretaker’s isn’t just responding to trends — they’re helping to shape them. As Australia’s appetite for low-ABV, aperitivo-style drinking continues to rise, Dolin provides the perfect foundation for showcasing balance, finesse, and flavour-driven creativity.
“Dolin gives us freedom,” Darren says. “Its versatility means we can explore bold flavour combinations without losing that sense of elegance. That’s what keeps it exciting.”
As Caretaker’s continues to push creative boundaries and Dolin inspires with its timeless craft, their partnership celebrates a shared philosophy rooted in respect for ingredients, hospitality, and innovation. Together, they prove that tradition and creativity can thrive side by side, creating drinks that feel both classic and endlessly new — with Cerbaco proudly supporting the journey every step of the way.
Discover the magic of Dolin vermouth, perfectly poured at Caretaker’s Cottage — where timeless flavours meet award‑winning hospitality.
Visit Caretaker’s Cottage
139–141 Little Lonsdale Street, Melbourne VIC 3000
ISSUE #3 | CERBACO 2025
