The Spirits Insider: Legacy in a Glass. The Story of Cerbaco
- Emily Sampson
- 1 day ago
- 8 min read
An intimate conversation with Gabriel Chaise, the importer who shaped Australia’s taste for French spirits.
If you’ve ever asked yourself how France’s finest spirits found a home in Australia, the answer often leads back to one person: Gabriel Chaise. Founder and long-time director of Cerbaco, Gabriel’s influence on the Australian spirits scene has been quiet, consistent, and deeply rooted in personal relationships and an uncompromising passion for quality.
We sat down with Gabriel to reflect on his journey — from his early days working abroad to founding Cerbaco in the 1980s, to what he sees on the horizon for small distributors and the ever-evolving world of spirits. It’s a story less about spirits than about the people, places, and quiet decisions that shaped them.
Gabriel’s career didn’t begin in spirits, but in rubber.
In the 1970s, he began his professional journey at Kleber, a French tyre company that was a Michelin subsidiary. As the export manager for Central Africa, his role involved extensive travel across countries such as Nigeria, Cameroon, Gabon, and Congo, where he worked closely with industries such as logging and mining to test and troubleshoot tyre performance.
One day, Gabriel received a call from the head office in Paris. He was told that his English was the best in the company and asked if he’d be willing to go to Australia. The reason? A major tyre distributor had ordered two containers of tyres two years prior and had yet to pay for them. Gabriel accepted the challenge and flew to Australia to recover the debt. What he found was not a dodgy operation, but a charming businessman in need of credit. Gabriel struck a deal, and within a year, Kleber tyres became the leading imported passenger tyre in Australia, overtaking even Michelin.
Impressed by the region’s opportunities, Gabriel proposed relocating permanently to Melbourne. His pitch? He could manage and expand business across Japan, Southeast Asia, the Pacific Islands, and New Zealand. Kleber agreed, and in 1973, Gabriel moved to Australia, laying down roots that would eventually blossom into something far more personal.
During his time at Kleber, Gabriel also spearheaded an initiative that brought groups of tyre dealers to Paris for technical and commercial training seminars. But the learning didn’t stop in the classroom. In the evenings, Gabriel would treat his guests to unforgettable dining experiences through his collaboration with Jean Didier, head of the Kleber restaurant guide (a more selective alternative to the Michelin Guide).
Gabriel would ask Jean for the latest three-star restaurants in Paris and book entire groups into these prestigious venues. It was during these dinners — surrounded by culinary excellence, storytelling, and celebration — that his passion for French gastronomy and fine spirits quietly took root.
“That’s how I got to know all the three-star chefs in Paris. Maybe that’s where the idea of importing premium spirits began to take root.”
The Birth of Cerbaco
When Kleber, under Michelin’s direction, decided to recall its regional directors from around the world — the Pacific, the Middle East, and Africa — Gabriel was told he’d be repatriated too. But not to Paris, where the company had a stunning head office near the Arc de Triomphe. His posting? Nancy.
“Nancy is a magnificent city, with Stanislas Square — one of the most beautiful in the world. But it was boring. That’s the truth. I had lived in Africa and then in Australia. Going back to Nancy didn’t feel like progress.”
So, he made a different decision. He stayed.
After leaving Kleber, Gabriel found himself at a crossroads — try something new in Australia or return to the safe but stifling comfort of a French corporate job. He gave himself some time to explore other ventures, including a stint selling windsurfers.
“I sold a few,” he shrugs with a grin, “but not enough to build a future.”
Eventually, Gabriel joined forces with three New Zealand friends to start an import-export venture.
“We had decided that we would do business. We opened a company with grand ambitions. In the beginning, we imported stupid things like hairbrushes and eyelashes,” he chuckles.
But Gabriel couldn’t shake the memory of the bottles he’d discovered in France — small producers with handwritten labels and remarkable detail. Some listed their terroir, like Grand Champagne or Borderies. Others mentioned whether they’d aged in a dry or humid cellar. Many noted the exact dates they were distilled and bottled. These weren’t just spirits; they were time capsules.
He began importing Cognac, Armagnac, and Calvados — a bold move at a time when most Australians had never heard of them. But for Gabriel, they were honest, beautiful products, and he believed in sharing them with a country on the verge of its culinary awakening.
And then there was the name: Cerbaco.
Gabriel: “Everyone thinks it’s French, but it’s not. It was a mashup — C for Chaise, Er for Ernest, Ba for Barnard, and Co for Colleen. My friends from New Zealand. A stupid name,” he laughs.
Emily: “It does sound nice with a French accent.”
Gabriel: “It would probably sound even better in Italian. Uno Cerbaco!” he jokes. “But no one remembers it. They remember Gabriel Chaise. They remember Armagnac, Cognac, and Rum. That’s what matters.”
Emily: “Gabriel Chaise Distribution has a ring to it.”
Gabriel: “That’s what I should’ve done from the beginning. Even now, 30, 40 years later, people still forget Cerbaco. But they remember the products.”
The first-year turnover was modest — around $7,000 — but Gabriel’s determination and vision positioned Cerbaco as Australia’s champion of artisanal spirits.
Importing People First
At the time, the Australian spirits landscape was vastly different from today. Import regulations were tight, the market was dominated by mainstream brands, and appreciation for artisanal or traditional products was minimal. Cerbaco was one of the first companies to take a risk on boutique, heritage producers — importing Armagnac, Cognac, Calvados, and other small-batch French spirits that were practically unknown to Australian drinkers.
Over the decades, Gabriel has cultivated long-standing relationships with independent producers across France. He introduced Australians to houses like Darroze, Delord, Christian Drouin, François Voyer, and Michel Couvreur — each chosen for their craftsmanship, authenticity, and family-owned values.
His deep commitment to the industry is evident in these enduring relationships.
“I like to say that I import people first, and products second.”
Q: How have you kept relationships with suppliers for decades?
“By being honest — and sometimes by stretching their patience!” he smiles. “We’ve always paid everyone, sometimes a little late because Australia’s cash flow is seasonal, but we’ve built real friendships with our producers. We visit them in France, they visit us here, we share dinners, bottles, and stories. Many of them feel more like family than business partners.”
Partners in Life, Partners in Business
For years, Cerbaco remained small and relatively relaxed — a few days of work each week, and long holidays in France whenever possible.
“Not rich, not poor, but very happy. I’d go away, leave the business in the hands of friends. They were honest enough not to cheat too much, and when I came back, the business had usually improved.”
That changed when he met Valérie.
“She was a schoolteacher who had opened bilingual kindergartens, and she was doing that really well,” he says.
She saw the potential in what Gabriel was building and decided to join him in the business, bringing with her a sharp mind and entrepreneurial spirit that helped shape Cerbaco’s next chapter. Valérie brought with her a sense of structure and modernity.
“She introduced computers, printers — everything I’d managed to avoid for years.”
Together, they shifted Cerbaco from a passion project into a more structured business. They expanded their team, bringing on sales representatives across the country — or, as Gabriel prefers to call them, “ambassadors.”
“They were amazing. They could’ve sold nuclear plants — just without the noise and the danger.”
Championing Authenticity
For Gabriel, the cornerstone of Cerbaco has always been authenticity. Every product in the portfolio — from Darroze Armagnac to François Voyer Cognac — tells a story of terroir, craftsmanship, and time. He firmly believes that age matters only in the barrel, transparency builds trust, and the best spirits are those left unaltered.
“A spirit aged in a wet cellar is completely different from one aged in a dry cellar. We carry products that tell you exactly how long they’ve rested in wood, and that honesty has set us apart.”
Q: What defines Cerbaco’s philosophy?
“Authenticity. Transparency. We tell you how long a spirit spent in the barrel, whether it aged in a humid or dry cellar, the distillation method, the bottling date — everything. You might not love every product we import, but you can never say they aren’t good. Every bottle has a story worth telling.”
Some products were ahead of their time, and not everything landed with the market — but Gabriel remained committed. He believed that if you focused on quality, respected the producer, and educated the trade, the demand would come. And it did. Slowly at first, then all at once. The rise of craft cocktails, independent wine shops, and boutique spirits retailers opened doors that Cerbaco had quietly been knocking on for decades.
Q: What trends have shaped the Australian spirits market?
“The gin revolution was huge. Mezcal and tequila are having their moment. Rum is growing too. But Armagnac and Cognac — the most complex, layered spirits of all — haven’t had their revolution yet. I thought whisky might open the door, but brandy still carries a stigma in Australia from the days of cheap flagons. One day, though, people will realise what they’re missing.”
If there’s a thread running through Gabriel’s career, it’s patience — with markets, with producers, and with the slow work of changing minds.
A Life’s Work Honoured
When asked about milestones, Gabriel doesn’t dwell on financial growth or fame. Instead, he highlights the relationships that have defined his journey — and the honour they’ve brought in return.
“My friends secretly lobbied the French government to award me the Mérite Agricole, which recognises contributions to French agriculture and trade. When I realised how many farming families we support across France — in Cognac, Armagnac, Calvados, rum, everything — I thought, yes, that makes sense. We’ve built something that helps both producers and customers. That’s something I’m very proud of.”
And of course, there’s the spirits themselves.
“You can spend an evening with just 30ml of Armagnac, talking, exploring, and discovering new layers with every sip. That’s what makes it magical.”
Today, Cerbaco continues to represent an exceptional portfolio of artisanal spirits, thanks in large part to the groundwork Gabriel laid. Though he’s passed the torch to the next generation of leadership, Gabriel remains active in the business: working closely with suppliers, mentoring the team, and rarely missing an afternoon coffee and a laugh with the crew.
Throughout our conversation, Gabriel kept returning to people — the producers who have become lifelong friends, the employees who have grown with the company, and the customers who now ask for Armagnac by name.
Looking ahead, Gabriel believes the most significant challenge for small- to mid-sized distributors will be navigating a market that’s increasingly crowded, price-sensitive, and fast-moving. But he’s optimistic, especially for businesses that remain true to their values.
With a career spanning five decades, Gabriel has built a legacy in spirits — but his proudest achievement has nothing to do with the industry.
“My children,” he says with a smile.
“They are my biggest success.”
And after all these years, does he still have a favourite drink? “Something bitter with gentian,” he says. “Elegant, refined… the true taste of the Alps.”
A palate shaped by passion and perfected over time.
Continue the story with Cerbaco.
Explore the spirits that have shaped a legacy over four decades.
ISSUE #6 | CERBACO 2026
